Rabbit care, before and after you adopt.

Is a Rabbit Right for You?

Domestic rabbits are inquisitive, intelligent, sociable and affectionate companions who can live for 10+ years. Adopting one is a long-term commitment. They can also be little troublemakers who take over your life and damage your furniture. Without time for the care they need, you may find yourself resenting your pet rather than falling in love. Read this honestly before you apply.

• It's a long commitment. Plan for 10+ years of daily care, housing, and veterinary costs.
• Rabbits need a lot of attention. Rabbits are social animals and can become depressed when left alone too long. A single rabbit needs daily attention and interaction to stay happy and healthy. Make time in your schedule to socialize, not just feed them.
• They're natural chewers and diggers. Cords, furniture, baseboards, and carpet need rabbit-proofing.
• Most don't like being picked up. Being lifted can feel like being caught by a predator. Many show affection by staying close, nudging, or licking rather than cuddling in your arms.
• Vet care is specialized and can be costly. Identify a rabbit-savvy vet before you need one and budget for routine and emergency care.
• Rabbits shed a lot. Just like cats and dogs, rabbits shed and can trigger allergies. Their dander, saliva, urine, or hay may cause a reaction, so spend time around rabbits before adopting if you're concerned. Many rabbits also dislike grooming because their skin is sensitive. Learn a safe technique, be gentle, stay calm, and offer small treats.
• Rabbit hay everywhere. Hay is the main food in a rabbit's diet and keeps digestion moving. Expect it to travel around your home. It can clog household vacuums, so a carpet broom or a suitable shop vacuum can make cleanup easier. It's manageable with a routine.
• Rabbits hide their pain and can suddenly get very sick. As prey animals, rabbits instinctively hide weakness, so a rabbit may already be seriously ill before you notice. Pay close attention to their everyday habits and learn the warning signs.

Rabbit Behavior

Understanding normal rabbit behavior helps you meet their needs instead of fighting their instincts.

Foraging

Rabbits are curious explorers who sniff out hiding places, treats, and opportunities for mischief. Hide a few of their daily pellets in a foraging mat to keep them engaged.

Digging

Digging is a natural instinct that can target room corners and spaces under furniture. Give it a safe outlet with cardboard boxes, hay-stuffed cardboard rolls, or dig boxes filled with hay, a few pellets, or torn plain paper. Search for DIY rabbit dig boxes for more ideas.

Chewing

Rabbit teeth grow continuously, like fingernails. Chewing and a hay-rich diet are essential to dental health. Offer rabbit-safe paper, cardboard, untreated wood, willow, and hay. Protect household wires and wooden items with thorough bunny-proofing.

Exercise

Rabbits are built to run. They are often most active in the morning and evening, with short bursts of zooming and hopping followed by long rests. A relaxed rabbit may stretch or flop out wherever they feel safe.

Grooming

Rabbits spend a good part of the day grooming. This helps keep their coats tidy and gives you the delightful sight of a rabbit washing its face and ears with its paws.

Socialization

Rabbits need regular interaction to stay happy. A newcomer may take time to warm up, but once they trust you, many love hanging out and playing. A properly bonded rabbit partner can provide company throughout the day.

Rabbits are quiet

Rabbits don't bark or meow. They communicate mostly through body language, with occasional soft grunts or tooth purring. Thumping can be loud and may signal alarm. They can suit a household that prefers a quieter companion.

Rabbits are clean

Rabbits are careful self-groomers and usually have little body odor. Their dry droppings aren't strongly scented, but urine can smell of ammonia. Daily litter-box maintenance keeps odors down. Rabbits still produce dander and can trigger allergies.

Rabbits and Children

Rabbits are not low-maintenance, and they aren't starter pets. They are delicate animals that need gentle handling and a calm environment.

Children are naturally loving and energetic, but to a small child, love often means holding, cuddling, or carrying a pet. Those are the very things that frighten and hurt rabbits. Their bones, especially their spines, are fragile. A squeeze, a chase, or an accidental drop can cause serious injury. A frightened rabbit may scratch or bite to protect itself. These misunderstandings can lead to rabbits being given up and are part of why we exist.

Rabbits can do well in families when an adult is the primary caretaker and children learn to interact gently under supervision. If you have young children, we're happy to talk through whether a rabbit is the right fit for your home.

New Bunny Checklist

Set this up before your rabbit comes home so their space is ready the moment they arrive.

• An exercise pen at least 6 ft x 4 ft and 32 inches high, or a bunny-proofed room; no cages or enclosed hutches
• Litter box(es) with rabbit-safe litter (paper pellet or plain hay; never pine, cedar, or clumping clay)
• Unlimited grass hay (timothy, orchard, or meadow) and a hay rack or pile
• Plain timothy-based pellets; skip the seed-and-dried-fruit mixes
• A heavy food bowl and a water bowl (bowls are generally better than bottles)
• A hideout or hut for security
• Chew-safe toys: cardboard, untreated wood, willow
• A hard plastic carrier with front and top openings
• Small-animal nail clippers
• A rabbit-savvy vet identified before you need one
• A rabbit-proofing plan for cords, baseboards, and houseplants

Diet & Nutrition

Unlimited grass hay (timothy) is the foundation of an adult rabbit's diet. These proportions are a general guide; age, weight, and medical needs can change the plan.

• Hay, about 85% of the diet: offer unlimited timothy, orchard, or meadow hay around the clock. It supports digestion and dental health.
• Pellets, about 5% of the diet: choose nutritious plain pellets such as Oxbow, Science Selective, or Sherwood. Measure the daily portion according to your rabbit's needs. AVOID mixes with seeds, nuts, dried fruit, or yogurt drops.
• Fresh greens, about 10% of the diet: rotate washed green/red leaf lettuces, romaine, cilantro, parsley, and other rabbit-safe greens. Introduce new foods slowly.
• Treats: limit approved rabbit treats to very small amounts. Examples include a little banana, blueberries, or strawberries.
• Avoid: avocado, chocolate, bread, cereal, yogurt drops, and sugary treat mixes.
• Water: always provide clean, fresh water. A heavy bowl is a good option; wash and refill it daily.

House Rabbit Society's list of rabbit-safe greens, fruits, and vegetables

Health & Vet Care

Rabbits hide pain and illness because they are prey animals. By the time they look sick, the problem may be serious. Know their normal habits and pay close attention.

Learn more about GI stasis and its warning signs.

• Find a vet before you need one. Use our Exotic/Rabbit Savvy Vets directory and confirm an after-hours plan. Not every emergency clinic treats rabbits.
• Spay or neuter. This reduces hormonal behavior and reproductive health risks. All Wayward Rabbits are spayed or neutered before adoption.
• Teeth: continuously growing teeth need a hay-rich diet. Drooling, dropped food, or difficulty chewing needs a veterinary exam.
• Parasites: never use dog or cat flea products on a rabbit without specific veterinary guidance; many are toxic.

Common signs of sickness

• A change in eating habits
• A change in litter habits: no poop, smaller poop, or a change in color or texture
• Sitting in a hunched position
• A change in energy levels
• Drooling
• Very hot or very cold ears, especially alongside other symptoms
• Lack of balance or a head tilt
• Matted fur or discharge around the eyes and nose
• Mouth breathing
• Abscesses or bumps
• Excessive ear scratching
• Matted or balding fur
• Unexplained aggressive behavior

• RHDV2 and Vaccination: Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease Virus Type 2 is highly contagious and often fatal in domestic and wild rabbits. Sudden death can be the only sign. There is no cure, so prevention is the best protection.

The virus can spread through direct contact, contaminated food, bedding, or surfaces, and on shoes, clothing, and insects. Indoor rabbits can be exposed too. All Wayward Rabbits receive this lifesaving vaccine before adoption. Adopters need to keep vaccination current with annual boosters through a rabbit-savvy vet, following that vet's advice. Find a vet in SC or NC, or locate one near you.

RHDV2 information from the NC Department of Agriculture

Rabbit Poop

Rabbit poop tells you a lot about their health. A rabbit can produce around 200 droppings a day, though the number varies. Their digestion needs to keep moving, so their poop, or lack of it, is an important clue.

Healthy fecal droppings are round, fairly dry, and fibrous, a little like cocoa puffs. Learn what is normal for your rabbit. Changes in size, shape, color, texture, or amount can be an early sign of trouble. Catching a change promptly can help prevent a more serious illness.

Housing, Setup & Litter

Rabbits need room to run, jump, and explore for their physical and mental well-being. No cages or enclosed hutches. Most people use exercise pens to keep their rabbit safely in one space while giving them room to forage and hop. Rabbits should live indoors as part of the household.

Give your rabbit a few hours of daily exercise outside their enclosure to stay active and help prevent destructive behavior. Many of our rabbits are free-roam rabbits, living openly in several rooms once they settle into the family. This requires bunny-proofing to protect both your rabbit and your belongings.

• Space: choose an enclosure at least 6 ft x 4 ft and 32 inches high. Give more space whenever possible, especially for larger rabbits or pairs.
• Floor covering: use easy-to-clean cotton rugs, fleece blankets, towels, washable dog pee pads, washable rugs such as Ruggables, or other rabbit-safe coverings. Foam puzzle mats must be covered or removed if chewed. Check all fabrics for loose threads and remove anything your rabbit eats.
• Temperature: keep their space cool, shaded, and well ventilated. Rabbits are sensitive to heat; ask your vet about a safe temperature for your home.
• Rabbit-proofing: protect cords, baseboards, furniture, and houseplants. Many plants are toxic, so keep them out of reach.

Enrichment and Entertainment

• Toss toys: sturdy plastic baby toys, balls, and toy keys can invite play. Avoid small parts and remove damaged toys before pieces can be swallowed.
• Mats and dig boxes: rabbit-safe seagrass, timothy, coconut, or jute mats, plus boxes filled with hay or torn plain paper, give digging a safe outlet.
• Chew toys: offer untreated rabbit-safe wood, willow, sisal, jute, coconut fiber, plain paper, cardboard, hay, and grasses.
• Stuffies: some rabbits like grooming or snuggling a stuffed animal. Choose one without loose parts, supervise, and remove it if they chew fabric or stuffing.
• Carrier: we recommend a hard plastic carrier with both front and top openings for easier, safer access.

Litter Training

• Place a roomy litter box in the corner your rabbit naturally chooses.
• Use rabbit-safe paper-pellet litter. Avoid pine or cedar shavings and clumping or clay cat litter. Keep plenty of fresh hay available beside the box.
• Clean the litter box daily.
• Spaying and neutering dramatically improves litter habits. All Wayward Rabbits will be spayed or neutered before adoption.

Bringing Your Rabbit Home

A new rabbit has unfamiliar smells, sounds, and routines to adjust to. Give them a quiet, ready-to-use space and time to decompress. A rabbit who hides on day two is still learning that they are safe.

• Set up their enclosure before they arrive, away from busy household traffic.
• Keep children and other pets at a distance during the first few days.
• Keep meals, cleaning, and quiet visits on a predictable schedule.
• Check their eating and droppings from the first day. Hiding can be normal; not eating or not pooping needs prompt veterinary advice.

See the 3-3-3 guide below to set realistic expectations.

Expectations & Trust

Rabbits are slow to trust. They can be incredibly friendly and lovable, but settling in takes patience. The 3-3-3 rule is a rough guide, not a deadline. Every rabbit adjusts at their own pace.

• First 3 days: they may feel overwhelmed, skittish, and uninterested in interacting. Territorial droppings can appear as they explore. Allow a day or two to decompress before considering a first introduction to another rabbit. Both rabbits must be healthy, spayed or neutered, cleared of quarantine, and ready for a supervised meeting on neutral ground.
• After 3 weeks: they often begin settling into routines and showing their personality.
• After 3 months: they may feel at home and be building real trust and a bond with you.

Some rabbits adjust faster and others slower. That's normal.

Building Trust

Avoid loud noises and fast movements. Rabbits like structure, routine, and plenty of hiding spots.

Let them come to you. We know how hard this is, but trust the process. They will begin to trust you if you respect their space and allow them to choose when they approach. Invading their space before they are ready is a guaranteed way to make them fearful and delay their trust.

• Get on their level. Read, watch TV, or do quiet activities nearby. Talk softly so they learn your voice and that you aren't a threat.
• Use food. Hand-feed some of their daily pellets or greens to build positive associations.
• Play. Try stacking cups, dig boxes, or a hay-stuffed cardboard roll with a hidden treat. Pet them only when they welcome it, and reward calm interactions.
• Hold off on handling. Being picked up can feel frightening. If lifting is necessary, support their body securely and offer a small treat afterward.

With patience, you may see your rabbit run over when you enter or binky at your voice. There is nothing better than becoming their happy place.

Grooming & Shedding

Rabbits are fastidious self-groomers, which means your job is mostly about managing shedding; not bathing.

• Skip the baths. Submerging a rabbit is a serious stress event and carries a real risk of shock or hypothermia. Spot-clean with a damp cloth only when truly necessary.
• Brushing: weekly for short-coated rabbits; daily for long-haired breeds, since their coats mat easily.
• Molting seasons: rabbits blow their coat heavily twice a year (roughly 2–6 weeks each), with two lighter sheds in between. Indoor rabbits with less natural light exposure sometimes seem to shed year-round.
• Brush daily during a heavy molt. Rabbits can't vomit, so loose fur they groom and swallow can build up into a dangerous digestive blockage; frequent brushing is real prevention, not just tidiness.

Nail Trims

Overgrown nails can curl, snag, and eventually affect how a rabbit stands and walks; a routine trim keeps them comfortable.

• Frequency: roughly every 4–6 weeks for most rabbits.
• Tools: small animal nail clippers work well; keep styptic powder or plain cornstarch nearby in case you nick the quick.
• Technique: trim in good light so you can see the quick (the pink vein inside the nail) and clip only the nail beyond the quick, leaving a safe margin. When in doubt, take a little at a time.
• Handling: a snug towel wrap ("bunny burrito") or a calm helper holding your rabbit securely makes this far less stressful for everyone.
• First time doing this? Ask us or your vet to walk you through it once in person before you try it solo.
• Dolly’s Dream rabbit-care and nail-trim resources

Rabbits & Other Pets

Rabbits can sometimes share a home with other pets, including cats, birds, guinea pigs, and well-behaved dogs, but sharing a home does not mean sharing an enclosure. Rabbits are prey animals. Any introduction takes patience, a barrier, and close supervision.

The Ground Rules

• Always house pets separately, including rabbits and guinea pigs.
• Never leave a rabbit alone with another pet, even one that seems friendly.
• Give the rabbit hiding places and an escape route so they never feel cornered.
• End interactions at the first sign of stress and try again another day.
• Have a long-term separation plan. You can't force animals to get along.

Rabbits and Cats

Cats can be a more workable pairing, but it depends on the individual animals.

• Good signs: a calm cat with low prey drive, especially one who grew up around the rabbit or is curious but relaxed.
• Warning signs: stalking, chasing, and hunting behavior are reasons to keep them apart.
• Size matters: small rabbits may trigger a chase response. A larger rabbit changes the dynamic but doesn't make an interaction safe.
• Rabbits can start trouble too: a territorial rabbit may lash out when a cat enters its space or corners it.

How to introduce them

1. Start with a secure pen or fence. Give the rabbit a hiding spot and the cat an escape route.
2. Keep early sessions short. Stop if either pet shows stress. A frightened rabbit may run, hide, or thump.
3. Go slowly. After days or weeks of calm sessions, without panic or lunging at the barrier, consider a closely supervised meeting without it.
4. Stay close and be ready to separate them at the first sign of danger.
5. Keep supervising, even after months of calm behavior. Separate them whenever you are asleep or away.

Rabbits and Dogs

Dogs are much riskier. Many have strong chase instincts, and some breeds were developed to hunt rabbits. Many rabbits and dogs aren't a safe match, though a calm, well-trained dog accustomed to small animals may sometimes coexist with a confident rabbit.

• A barking dog can cause severe fear, even without contact.
• Even a gentle dog's play can seriously injure a rabbit. Puppies may mistake a rabbit for a toy.
• The best potential match is a confident rabbit and a calm dog who reliably responds to "sit" and "stay."

How to introduce them

1. Use both a secure barrier and a leash. Keep the rabbit behind a pen and don't let the dog approach.
2. Watch both pets. If the dog lunges or the rabbit scrambles away, calmly lead the dog out. Repeat brief sessions over several days.
3. Move closer only when both stay calm. Keep the leash on and watch for trembling or other fear.
4. Consider a supervised meeting only when both are relaxed. Keep the dog leashed, let the rabbit approach first, and provide a hiding place.
5. Keep sessions short over several weeks. Even if they seem friendly, never leave them alone together.

Why Did My Rabbit Bite Me?

A rabbit usually bites because it is afraid or feeling territorial. Common triggers include:

• Being picked up. Many rabbits feel trapped when held and learn to nip at hands to avoid it.
• Being cornered. Chasing a rabbit into its enclosure can make it feel it has nowhere left to run.
• Having their space rearranged. Some rabbits lunge during cleaning. Clean while your rabbit is out exercising.
• Being startled. Sudden noises or movement can frighten rabbits, especially those with limited sight or hearing who don't notice you approaching.
• Grabbing for food. Scatter a little food to distract them while swapping a bowl, or offer a treat on a spoon.

Understanding the cause helps prevent repeat bites. Change how you clean, handle, or offer food rather than punishing your rabbit. Spaying or neutering can help hormonal territorial behavior. Sudden new aggression can also signal pain and deserves a vet check.

Bite vs. Nip

A bite is forceful and painful. A nip is usually a quick pinch used to communicate, though any skin-breaking injury needs appropriate care. A rabbit may nip when:

• They're annoyed. They want to explore and are done being petted or held.
• You're in the way. A nip on the leg can mean "move."
• They're grooming you. Rabbits gently nip to work out tangles and may do the same to clothing, particularly at seams.

Bonding & Companionship

Rabbits are highly social animals, and most are happier and healthier with a bonded rabbit companion; it reduces loneliness and boredom-driven destructive behavior, and gives them a same-species friend to groom, rest, and explore with. If you already have a single rabbit at home, ask us about bonding support when you apply.

That said, two rabbits placed together with no process can seriously hurt each other. Bonding is a deliberate, sometimes slow process, not a simple introduction.

• Start from a good baseline: both rabbits should be spayed or neutered before bonding begins.
• Neutral territory first. Meet somewhere neither rabbit considers "theirs," so there's nothing to defend.
• Scent-swap before face-to-face: trade litter boxes or bedding for a few days so each rabbit gets used to the other's smell.
• Short, supervised "dates." Begin with brief sessions and slowly increase the time together as things go well.
• Read the body language. Mutual grooming and relaxed lounging are great signs. Circling, tense mounting, or fur pulling can escalate; be ready to calmly separate them (keep a solid barrier handy) rather than let it turn into a real fight.
• Bonding can take anywhere from a few days to a few months. Rushing it tends to set the relationship back further than it moves it forward.

Learn More

• Rabbit Care & Information: watch these quick how-to videos courtesy of Dolly's Dream for tips on nail trims, enclosure examples, picking up your rabbit, and more.
• The Bunny Lady: rabbit-care articles and guides
• Rabbit.org video library: handling, health, and behavior